One of the most followed and broadcasted Italian events of the year is coming up, the horse race with no rules where jockeys can push and whip one another and a horse without its rider can win the race: while a wild fanatic crowd is rooting and hoping for its contrada's victory.
It is a very much anticipated event in the city of Siena, particularly among those who live within the seventeen contrade - neighborhoods that compete against one another during the Palio. The trophy of the race is a palio, a beautiful banner created by a local or international artist: the banner is also the reason after which the celebration is named. The Palio represents a strong cultural aspect deeply rooted in Siena, part of Sienese's identity and pride. Although the race itself takes place twice in the summer - on July 2nd and August 16th to celebrate the Virgin Mary, the Palio goes on all year round behind the scenes.
A week before, the Palio adrenaline starts to build up slowly as the date of the final race approaches; it is a climax of events and there are quite a few events and ceremonies that happen before the race. In fact, the Palio lasts four days. On June 29 and August 13 around noon, la tratta - the lottery to assign horses to contrade - takes place in Piazza del Campo. Every contrada's horse care-taker or barbaresco takes its newly assigned horse and lives and sleeps with it until the race. That's right, contrade do not know which horse is going to run the race for them until three days prior to the actual race. Once a horse is assigned it cannot be changed, which it is not the case for the jockey; a contrada can change its mind about its jockey until the morning of the race! Hence, the horse is the real protagonist of the Palio since it holds the power to win the race, even if its jockey falls off - in this case the horse is called "cavallo scosso", horse without jockey.
The same evening of the tratta there is the first horse race trial followed by five more the following days. The day before the Palio the general rehearsal takes place in the evening and later the general rehearsal's dinner is consumed in every contrada; long trestle tables are set on the main street or square of a contrada and all the streets are illuminated by braccialetti - handmade lamps that match in color and design the flag of the contrada. Everybody reunites in front of a great meal: authorities, the Priore, jockey, and residents of the contrada - contradaioli. Tourists can join the dinner but reservations need to be made in advance. The dinner can bring about auspicious outcomes for the Palio and it is followed by speeches and singing of the hymn of the contrada. The same night allied contrade meet to strategize the moves for the race to prevent rival contrade to win.
The day of the Palio starts with the archbishop celebrating mass in honor of the jockeys in the chapel near Palazzo Comunale. Contrade run the last race trial, the so called provaccia because apparently not too much effort is put into it. Despite being the day of the Palio, in the morning Sienese work and perform their regular activities as usual from the business person to the artisan. However, you can feel in the air the anticipation of the final race. Many streets within the city wall are very quiet and decorated with contrade's flags and braccialetti. The current contrade are all located inside the city walls in Siena, and they have been unchanged since 1729; of the seventeen, only ten participate at the Palio. The contrada is thus a world unto itself, with great loyalty and pride among the residents for their respective contrade, each with its own territory, allies and rivals. That is why the Palio is such a big deal for the locals. And the best way to experience the Palio as an outsider is to choose a contrada and cheer for it by attending the multiple events prior to the final race.
In the afternoon in every contrada the benediction of the horse and jockey takes place in the church or outside of it if it is too small. I decided to attend the ceremony at the contrada of Pantera. I was very curious to attend and I had to wait outside the church with contradaioli until the church opened at the time scheduled and everybody walked in. It was so crowded and hot and everybody was talking. The procession of banner holders, flag bearers (sbandieratori) and drummers, followed by, to my surprise, the horse itself led by the jockey, march right into the church, everyone suddenly silent. The priest conducts the long ceremony, concluding with the sentence pronounced loudly to the horse: "Go and return victorious!" Once the horse walks out of the church door, contradaioli begin singing the hymn of contrada and a then the whole church breaks into a startlingly loud cheer, and everybody walks out.
Outside of the church Pantera's flag bearers , drummers and contradaioli begin parading followed by the people who attended the ceremony - including me. The procession goes through uncrowded streets at first, where there are only a few spectators. As it approaches the Cathedral, parades of other contrade from multiple points of the city gather in the same streets. By now the number of bystanders has increased, the drumming gets louder and louder and the colors get brighter and brighter. Pretty soon it is very hard to walk, so I veered away from the parade and head to Piazza del Campo. Everybody is going toward the Cathedral from where the Corteo Storico - pageant will start. The pageant ends in Piazza del Campo where the race is held.
Once I am in the center of the main square, Piazza del Campo, I have to wait until the race starts. It is scorching hot and there is no shade. I am surrounded by people, but not as many as I thought. I was told that around 4:00 pm the authorities begin closing the access to the square. Meanwhile the Palio starts with mounted police in high uniform in full charge, followed by Corteo Storico. People keep pouring in, and half an hour before the race starts the place is shoulder to shoulder packed. I found out later that it is possible to enter the square until 6:00pm from Via Duprè. Everybody is busy talking until the horses come in around 7:00pm announced by the cannon - suddenly voices quiet down and spectators focus on the horses that are lining up at the start. Everybody is waiting for the tenth horse to run in and start the race. Interestingly, there is no official signal to start the race; the horses are very nervous, and it can take quite a long time, and a few false starts, before the horses are lined up even enough to start the race. So you can imaging the tense atmosphere in the square. And when finally the race starts, all hell breaks loose!
There are only two ways to watch the race; for free in the center of the square or paying on the stands. There is no official website from where to purchase tickets. Often stands belong to bars and stores in the square and the windows are private apartments. If you are interested in purchasing tickets, start a year in advance with your search even though an insider is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you decide to watch it for free, keep in mind that it is very hard to see the race from the center of the square and the center is safer than the edge of the enclosed area, especially if you have kids.
When the race ended, I watched people's reactions. Someone were overjoyed with happiness that their horse won, but many more were devastated, and crying, that their horse had lost.
Palio in Siena, not only a horse race but a way of life.
Enjoy the Palio!