What is it? I have never heard of it. This is what I get when I ask people what they know about Ferrara. What about the House of Este, have you ever heard about it? I am sure you heard about the House of Medici, there is even a series on Netflix about them, Medici: Masters of Florence. If the Medici were extremely powerful in Florence, the Estensi were as equally powerful in Ferrara. What else? Oh, one of the oldest wine bars, almost six hundred years old is in Ferrara - still in business. Copernicus visited the city where he received his doctorate in canon law. Ah, one more; it is the birthplace of Michelangelo Antonioni, one among the most celebrated Italian film directors. Needless to say that if you are looking for a new area to explore during your trip in Italy, consider visiting Ferarra.
The city of Ferrara in Emilia Romagna is today a tranquil city with foggy and humid winters and hot summers. The best time to visit it is either in the spring or autumn. In nice evenings people gather in centro to meet and chat with their friends; it is not unusual to witness young couples walking hand on hand, groups of seniors exchanging opinions on political matters, and families strolling on the streets where bikes are running the show.
City for Cyclists
Yes, bikes are everywhere! Especially in centro where cars are not allowed unless they have a permit to access the area defined as ZTL (zona traffico limitato), Limited Traffic Zone. On this regard it is worth spending a few words. Every city in Italy has a ZTL area which usually is in centro; you will know that you are about to enter the limited traffic zone because there are signs. Do not assume that you can cross the boundaries because locals drive through, they have passes while you do not. A great way to access the centro is by public transportation, or by bike. And Ferrrara has a nice network of bike trails. Hotels have bikes available for their guests for free. If you are traveling with children, check in advance if where you are staying they have kid bikes. Bicycles in centro are in every corner; tied to a pole, parked in bike racks, or leaning toward a wall near a store's entrance.
The Centro Storico
Why is the centro storico so important for a first timer in Ferrara? The centro storico or simply centro is the area inside the ancient city walls where the most significant edifices, monuments and landmarks are situated; very often palazzi (palaces), porticoes, and squares are architectural masterpieces and a must-see in Ferrara. There are parking lots outside the city walls. The parking lot Parcheggio Centro Storico is very close to the centro; in fact, it is only a ten minute walk away - parking your car all day costs 3.50 Euros.
Once you are inside the city walls, mura you can quickly reach Piazza della Cattedrale, where the Romanesque XII century cathedral stands; on its south side the Loggia of Mercanti - a long portico with shops underneath - characterizes the exterior of the church.
On the north side of the Cathedral, on the narrow street Via Abelardi, there is one of the oldest wine bars in the world - Al Brindisi, as testified by the Guinness Book of World Records. At the number 11 the wine bar has been open since 1435. In the past its name was "Hostaria del Chiucchiolino" - a common name for taverns back then in the peninsula since "chiù" meant drunk in the local language. The establishment has been in business for almost six centuries. Today is a well known enoteca, wine bar in Ferrara for its unique list of wines; the owner hunts for wines produced with local and non-transplanted vineyards. Such vineyards are unique because they have been in a specific area since their origin. In Italian these vineyards are called vitigni autoctoni, thus you may see in wine menus the wording vini autoctoni. Spending an evening at Al Brindisi is a great way to discover less known wines and taste aromatic food prepared in the kitchen to accompany the flavor of the wine you ordered. Famous Italian artists, writers and international scientists such as Ludovico Ariosto (poet, 1474 -1533), Torquato Tasso (poet, 1544 - 1595), and Tiziano Vecellio better known as Titian (painter, 1488 -1576) visited the tavern. Nicolaus Copernicus stayed briefly above the establishment while he was attending the University of Ferrara.
After visiting Al Brindisi, a stroll amid old streets of centro storico allows you to take in the Medieval and Renaissance urban design of Ferrara. Narrow streets paved with cobblers delimited by brick and stone buildings make you feel like you are walking back in time. One particular street, Via delle Volte, really brings you back a few centuries. The characteristic arches go back to the XIII and XIV century, and the street is paved in old river rocks. In the past the merchants used the arches to move from their residences and shops to their warehouses by the river Po. In fact, the river was flowing by the warehouses, thus the merchants had easy access to the Po to transport their goods. Nowadays, the Po follows a different route, outside the centro.
While you are exploring narrow alleys and ancient streets of the Medieval side of the city, make sure to veer north to admire Renaissance wide boulevards such as Corso Ercole I d'Este. The Corso was paved around 1461 and its connecting the center to the city gate Porta degli Angeli. It was part of the urban plan designed by Biagio Rossetti - master mind of the urban development of Ferrara and architect. Along the Corso, Renaissance palaces such as Palazzo dei Turchi di Bagno, Palazzo Prosperi Sacrati, and Palazzo dei Diamanti - to name a few, dominate the scene. They belonged to predominant families of the past. Strolling toward the Botanical Garden of the University of Ferrara will lead you to Palazzo dei Diamanti. The palace was designed by Biagio Rossetti like others in the area. It was built in 1494 and belonged to the Estensi; eventually the city of Ferrara acquired it in the XIX century. The palazzo is an architectural gem, and well known for its marble diamond ashlars that embellish its facade. Today is home to the Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Arts of Ferrara, and the Pinacoteca Nazionale; in addition, it hosts international art exhibitions.
The Medieval city of Ferrara characterized by disconnected neighborhoods, limited winding narrow roads, and primordial squares, was improved during the Renaissance. It undertook a major urban development mandated by the Duke Ercole d'Este of Ferrara who wanted to double the city's size and increase its defenses. Consequently city walls were expanded and fortified, roadways were widened, and intersections were strategically positioned. Existing squares became the fulcrum of daily life, public gardens appeared, and aristocratic residences started to rise. The goal was to impress the visitor by combining beauty and functionality. Therefore Ferrara is a marvelous example of Renaissance city with a beautiful castle right in its center.
The Estensi's Castle
Ferra's landmark is the castle of the House of Estensi. It proudly stands at the end of Corso Ercole I d'Este, in a square called Largo Castello; it is surrounded by a moat and equipped with drawbridges - what a magnificent example of Medieval fortress converted later into a residence! If you don't have much time to spend in the area and are not sure what to visit, the castle would be a great choice! It has everything you would expect a castle to have: unbelievable dungeons, luxurious chambers, and frescoed galleries. Often there are mirrors in rooms and halls so you can admire the painted ceiling without getting a pain in your neck for constantly staring up.
The frescoes show damage caused by the 2012 earthquake and yet they are still amazing.
Take a guided tour or visit it at your own pace; give yourself at least a couple of hours. It took us almost the whole morning. Admission tickets are not expensive, and discounts apply to children and families. My eight year old son loved visiting the castle! His favorite parts: exploring the dungeons and viewing the city panorama from one of the towers.
What do I like about Ferrara?
What struck me about Ferrara is its welcoming and laid back atmosphere. While it is considered one of Italy's major example of Renaissance cities, it is not yet a mecca for international visitors. It has nothing less to offer than its neighbor cities of Bologna, Mantova, and Padova; Ferrara's rhythm of life is still unaItered by the influence of tourists. Ferrara belongs to its inhabitants despite its reputation as an art city. It's bursting with architectural masterpieces and art everywhere you look, particularly in the centro storico. And the shades of brick colors found in buildings and pavers convey to the visitor a sense of warmth, comfort, and familiarity. Such feelings and sensations are reinforced by the fact that bikes, not cars prevail in centro thus minimizing noises caused by traffic.
Furthermore you are not going to be with a crowd of tourists. You can still witness a way of life unique to Ferrara and the area near the river Po.
It is almost natural for the visitor to mingle with the locals, shop in small independent boutiques, and ride a bike on cobbler paved streets. Although you are visiting, it will be spontaneous for you to sit at an outdoor table of a bar and watch pedestrians going by while you are savoring a piadina for lunch. Piadina is a sandwich made with flatbread, it is typical of the Emilia Romagna region. You can eat it with any kind of meat, cheese, and veggie as you like and you can eat it cold or warm. Bars and cafes will make it for you on the spot.
And with lunch, we get to the end of this post. I let you enjoying your piadina.
Arvëdas! As the local say, or Arrivederci!
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