Watch out! They are throwing oranges!
What do you mean they are throwing oranges?
Well, that’s what happens once a year in Ivrea, a town north of Piedmont during Carnevale’s celebrations (a.k.a. Mardi Gras, in Americas). And Carnevale is not a one day deal, it lasts for at least a month depending on where you live; in Ivrea from January 6 (Epiphany) to the day before Lent starts, which varies from year to year. Carnevale is one of my favorite festivals, and being from Biella I used to go to Ivrea to witness the battle of the oranges on a regular basis. Although I’m very familiar with Ivrea’s Carnevale, I interviewed my friend Monica who grew up in Ivrea, and lived the experience year after year, so I thank her for much of this description.
Before we start, a little bit of background about Carnevale.
What is Carnevale?
Carnevale goes way back to Pagan festivities, and it is tied to Christian and Catholic traditions. The term Carnevale derives from Latin carnem levare and it means “remove meat”. In fact, during the liturgical time of Lent, folks are not supposed to eat meat. The word Carnevale as we know it today is found in XIII century texts written by Matazone da Caligano, a jester.
Carnevale is a time during the year when chaos reigns; people wear costumes, eat abundantly, and speak freely. Tricks and mockery are the norm. It is celebrated with costume parades, float parades, masquerade balls, and banquets. Every region, province, and city celebrates it differently.
What is the story of Carnevale in Ivrea?
The Ivrea’s Carnevale has its roots in the Middle Age, and its rituals and ceremonies are still very tied to it; history and legend are intertwined and together they give life to an amazing festival in which the locals are very much involved - children included. The inhabitants of Ivrea and the surrounding area look forward to it from one year to the next. Every year the community comes together to celebrate and commemorate its freedom from tyrannical rules of the Middle Age.
The legend goes that the Marquis of Monferrato was cruel toward the city, and among other things imposed the practice of “jus primae noctis” or “right of the first night” which allowed him to have legal sexual relations with women of the area, especially on their wedding night. One of those women, Violetta, a miller’s daughter, rebelled against the marquis and killed him with his own sword. In doing so Violetta liberated the entire population from the tyrant. Today the battle of the oranges, one of the major events of Ivrea’s Carnevale, celebrates such rebellion.
Did you look forward to Carnevale?
Caspita, sì! Oh gosh, yes! It’s beautiful to watch it, still now after all these years. It starts on January 6 with the Fife and Drum corps’ parade; however, celebrations really take off on Fat Thursday. This isn’t a typo. The big festivity lasts six days, from Fat Thursday to Fat Tuesday (Martedi Grasso, Mardi Gras) with dances and masquerade parties; the General - a prominent character of Carnevale - takes charge of the city and invites citizens to wear the Phrygian cap during the battle of the oranges. The cap is a red cap that looks like a big red stocking, symbol of freedom.
On Saturday the mugnaia’s character shows herself for the first time - she is the symbol of the tyrant’s defeat. The historic parade formed by historic characters marches around the city while aranceri - people who throw oranges on foot and from wagons - are having parties.
On Sunday morning the Podestà, the head of the city with his followers go to the place where the old marquis’s castle used to stand; a rock from the ruins is detached, and thrown into the river Dora to symbolize that never again there will be a new castle, but most importantly a new tyrant. In the afternoon the “battaglia delle arance” or “battle of the oranges” starts.
Monica, what about the battle of the oranges?
It is considered the most spectacular event of Carnevale, and it takes place from Sunday to Tuesday. The aranceri symbolize the people fighting for their freedom against the guards of the tyrant, depicted nowadays by fighters fighting from wagons pulled by horses. Oranges are the ammunition although in the past it used to be beans. Everybody is welcome to participate as long as they pay between 90 and 130 euros well in advance to be part of one of the teams; There are nine pedestrian teams (Asso di Picche, Morte, Tuchini, Scacchi, Scorpioni d'Arduino, Pantere Nere, Diavoli, Mercenari, Credendari) and over fifty wagons. It is a competition, and both pedestrian teams and wagons are judged separately. The pedestrian teams are stationed in specific areas of the city; for example Diavoli, Pantere Nere, and Mercenari are fighting in Rondolino Square. The two oldest team, Asso di Picche and Morte are sharing the city's main square, Piazza Città.
I (Monica) threw oranges once with the team Scacchi because I had a friend who was part of that team, and they gave me their uniform which looks like a chessboard. By the way, pedestrian teams don't wear anything on their head.
You don’t have to be from Ivrea or from a specific neighborhood to be part of a team - you can choose your team, and actually many people come from surrounding towns, as long as they pay the fee. Upon payment they receive a badge to put on their jacket.
In the video the pedestrian teams Mercenari (in maroon and gold uniform), Schacchi (in chessboard uniform), and Pantere (in black uniform) are throwing oranges at the wagons.
The wagons are pulled either by a team of two horses, or by a team of four. They swap positions inside the squares for a few minutes. The design of the wagons' decorations and the horses' harness are judged in the competition. Men inside the wagons are wearing protective gear including helmets since they have no place to hide from flying oranges.
The squares and streets where the fights take place are protected by tarps; stores cover their window-shops with plywood, and nets protect public porticoes, surrounding buildings, and balconies. Usually visitors walk behind the nets, but it is very hard to see.
Is there fagiolata during Carnevale?
Oh, yes we have multiple fagioalate on Sundays before Carnevale and during celebrations, they take place in the city’s neighborhoods. Fagiolata or so-called faseuj grass is a bean stew that dates back to the Middle Age, when beans were distributed to the poor. It is made with beans, pork rinds, cotechino sausages, pig’s feet and bones, lard and onions. It cooks for 6 hours in large copper pots, and then it is distributed to the population. It is not uncommon to see lines of people waiting with their pots to be filled with stew after the priest gives benediction to the stew.
What happens on the last day of Carnevale?
On Fat Tuesday there is the last battle followed by the award ceremony in the main square. In the evening the scarli (poles covered with dry heather and juniper) are set on fire at different times by two children called Abbà in every parish (there are five parishes). The faster the scarlo burns the better it is because it is a sign of good auspices for the year that has just started. Once the last scarlo has burned the Generale can start the funeral march of Carnevale; the Fife and Drum corps will play a sad melody while the officers drag their swords on the pavement. People follow the march in silence wearing their red Phrygian caps for the last time. Carnevale is dead now, come to an end.
What’s your advice for somebody going for the first time?
First of all, be careful of flying citrus! Absolutely do not miss the scarlo ceremony, and the battle of the oranges. On Sunday the city charges admission, if you are not a resident. If you are interested only in the battle of the oranges the best day to watch it would be on Monday, because it’s free, and there aren’t many people.
I’d also say to dress with clothes and shoes that you don’t care about because it is likely that you get dirty. In addition, absolutely wear a read hat otherwise you are a target - the teams on wagons can throw oranges at folks who are not wearing a red hat. It has happened.
What do you miss the most about Carnevale?
I miss the whole thing, especially its traditions, sounds, and fragrances. I love the sound of fifes that resonate throughout the city, it’s just so beautiful. And the smell of oranges that permeates the air, it’s unforgettable. The city cleans the oranges with snow plows at the end of the festivities, but it’s impossible to pick up everything, because the oranges get stuck in between pavers - sanpietrini. So you can imagine...
Last year the Ivrea’s Carnevale was interrupted by Covid and this year (2021) has been cancelled for the same reason. I thought of writing the article anyway to celebrate it. And I’d like to thank my friend Monica Ribolzi for her interview and images, Matteo Olimi and the Mercenari (one of the aranceri pedestrian teams) who provided photographs and a video, and the photographers Alessio Avetta, Luisa Romussi, and Virgilio Ardy, who allowed me to use their photos.
I leave you with the local saying (in Piemontese dialect) that concludes Carnevale: Arvédze a giòbia ‘n bot - See you on Thursday at 1p.m., meaning next year’s Thursday when Carnevale starts again.
If you would like to know more about Ivrea’s carnevale, check out their official website.